|Introduction to NW Oregon Rock Climbing|
Portland Rock Climbs
provides beta for popular rock climbing crags around Portland and northwest Oregon,
as well as the opportunity for you to acquire the high quality Portland Rock Climbs guide book.
This overview on the nature of rock climbing is designed to help you focus on beneficial solutions with emphasis on good economic vitality for our region. Seven unique climbing crags enhance the beauty and enjoyment of living in this part of Oregon by providing you with a great outdoor based opportunity to be involved in this great region.
The following links provide general overview information on each rock climbing cliff, driving directions, and a road & trail diagram to help guide you quickly to the crag.
The seven popular rock climbing cliffs are: Broughton Bluff, Rocky Butte Quarry, Carver Bridge Cliff, Madrone Wall, Ozone Wall, and Beacon Rock. Take a drive to these local crags and explore some of the unique rock climbing opportunities.
|Outdoor Sports Links for Portland|
|Climb Matrix A social community of climbers, from beginner to experienced, meeting at indoor gyms and outdoor rock climbing sites.|
|CWMG A group of women with an interest in hiking, mountaineering, backpacking, kayaking, mountain-biking and rock climbing.|
|NW Wilderness A group of people that enjoy outdoor activities such as rock climbing, hiking, backpacking, mountaineering, kayaking, and skiing.|
The Northwest Oregon Rock book provides an indepth look at the sport of rock climbing throughout our unique little corner of the state. Don't be left out in the dark this summer without this quality book. NW Oregon Rock is nearly 400 pages of quality information describing climbing areas within an easy days drive from Portland, Oregon. The book details sites around the Mt Hood region (French's Dome, Razorblade, Enola (aka The Swine), Coethedral, Pete's Pile, Bulo, Area51, etc.), in the Columbia Gorge region (Chimney Rocks, Rooster Rock, The Rat Cave, Apocalypse Needles, Rabbit Ears, Clif Cliff, Windy Slab, Wankers, OH8, Horsethief Butte, etc), in the Santiam valleys (Needle Rock, Elephant Rock, Spire Rock, condensed Menagerie, Santiam Pinnacle, Iron Mtn, Two Girls, etc), in the McKenzie valley area (Skinners, Wolf Rock, Moolack), and in northeast Oregon (Spring Mountain, High Valley, etc). Check out the webpage Northwest Oregon Rock for basic info. This book is available at local recreation based retail stores, and via online retailers.
We offer a small selection of high quality free eBook presentations that you can download for quick reference while at the crag.
Great for use on various portable devices from Tablets to Smartphones (epub, mobi, iOS, etc), or one of your favorite eReader apps.
These eBook files provide climbers with an ultra-convenient beta source.
See our EBOOKS web page for local crags.
|Select Guidebook and Map Titles||Link|
|Portland Rock Climbs 4th edition||PRC|
|Northwest Oregon Rock 1st edition||NWOR|
|Beacon Rock Topographical Climbers Reference Map - South Face Aspect||Beacon Rock Map|
|Gorge Classic Climbs 1st edition||GCC|
The season is in, and opening day bouldering at Larch Mtn Boulders has begun. Superb granodiorite bouldering at its finest, and all within a one hour drive from Portland. You can find virtual year-round bouldering by touring a combination of several local hot spots - Larch, Cascade, and BOG Boulders (Bridge of the gods boulders). All are local, fast to get to, and offer plenty of flavor that sure beats a repeat trip to old haunts. Larch Boulders are great from late April thru October (till November if dry days occur). Then shift over to Cascade Boulders and spend all winter (on dry days) workin' the circuit over there on an endless string of tricky andesite beasts, some as tall as 16'. When sunshine and clear sailing skies beckon, go visit these quality bouldering destinations. Browse our Bouldering web page for more details.
Browse our Madrone web page Madrone Wall for more details.
Stay informed! Attend the meetings! Be part of the process!
An ascent of Turkey Monster in the Menagerie Wilderness.
A great bit of beta with a great selection of photos that really capture the essence of a wild ascent on this unusual pillar east of Sweet Home, Oregon. The next time you are planning a mid-summer adventure check out the Menagerie.
»» Turkey Monster
Exploring and scrambling has been a favorable pursuit in Northwest Oregon since before the turn of the 20th century.
In the Columbia River Gorge interest for exploration expanded, in part, because of the building of the Columbia Highway, which began in 1913.
Recreational values of northwest Oregon have continued to become focused and energized ever since those early years.
From the early 1950s onward rock climbers have found great interest in the local crags such as Broughton and Rocky Butte. As the rock climbing equipment improved, and as lead climbers broke into new degrees above the 5.9 level, these favorite local crags became great learning grounds for everyone to practice the sport of climbing.
Several local crags have structured governing policy concerning the activity of rock climbing. The land owners and/or governing agencies who oversee these areas strive to bring a degree of beneficial long term multi-purpose use to the site under their care.
St. Peter's Dome
Would anyone ever touch the summit of the St. Peter's Dome massif after Wayne's rope-solo? Yes, indeed!
Check out this vivid April 26th, 2008 ascent of the vertical cobblestone choss monster of the Columbia Gorge.
»» St. Peter's Dome
These three areas are:
Carver Bridge Cliff, privately owned crag with limited access granted to Carver Climbing Club members for $8.
Madrone Wall, Closed at present, but park development through Clackamas County is advancing.
and Beacon Rock. This popular climbing crag has a seasonal Peregrine Falcon closure on the south face aspect from approximately mid-Jan to mid-July.
Browse the link to each section for specific access information and other regulatory guidelines.
Our climbing crags do have certain objective dangers, and climbers should take precautionary measure against exposure to Poison Oak or rock fall.
Be safety conscious and use a helmet while climbing, especially at Beacon Rock. Wearing long pants will help to protect against encounters with poison oak. Learn to recognize the 3-leaf cluster of this very prevalent reddish foliage.
Note:»» The Iron Mountain Crag in Lake Oswego is NOT open to rock climbing. You risk being issued a trespassing citation by the Lake Oswego city police for being on railroad property. Do not climb at that crag.
Rock climbers in northwest Oregon generally seek the local crags from May to September. During this portion of the year mild Pacific marine air often mixes with inland Great Basin hot weather to bring a climber friendly cycle that keeps Northwest Oregon quite comfortable.
- Summer month temperatures average about 70°F to 80°F with occasional short peaks of hot sunny days in July and August in the 90°F to 95°F range. Check the forecast link NOAA Western U.S.
- Winter Pacific marine air brings a consistent series of rain showers, starting in late October through March. Cold winter rainy days offer temperatures that average in the 35°F to 50°F range.
- Virtual year-round rock climbing is readily available at Broughton Bluff and eventually the Madrone Wall. Both offer a southwesterly orientation toward the winter sunshine. With a little sunshine each of these crags will quickly dry out, and both crags provide a respite from the notorious howling east winds of the Columbia River Gorge.
- On Mt Hood is a biography of Oregon's Perilous Peak written by Jon Bell. A book about anything and everything related to the mountain: news, conditions, trails, campsites, wines, accidents, triumphs, stories, connections, and much, much more.
- An excellent alternative Fall and Spring climbing destination worth visiting to escape from rainy west side weather is Smith Rock in central Oregon. When western Oregon rains are simply too much, make a fast road trip over the mountains to the semi-arid, often-sunny Smith Rock climbing paradise.
- For those who like sustained vertical columnar basalt crack climbing then check out Jeff Wenger's website for Trout Creek. Trout Creek has become one of the quality new additions to the central Oregon climbing tour, and its a mere 3-hour drive from Portland.