Overhanging rain-free cave climbing

The Rat Cave is one of Northwest Oregon’s little gems in that it sports a high concentration of difficult rock climbs within a reasonable proximity to Portland metro area. The Cave is an unusual basalt rock feature with a wildly overhung 30’ horizontal cave roof surrounded with a 50’ steep overhanging outer face. The routes provide an intense opportunity to experience beta-intensive rock climbing requiring endurance, power and movement. The routes are beta intensive, because every single knob looks like a hold. An initial foray might leave you with a sense of being sandbagged but local climbers who know the routes very well can provide great guidance to each climb. Climbing at the Cave is potentially feasible for 12 months of the year, but the best time to climb here is generally from September till February.

For Directions and Beta: see the Gorge Rock chapter in the Northwest Oregon Rock guidebook.

Site Information, Local Retail Businesses & Public Entities:

Services: Gas station service is available on the south side of the river at either Troutdale or at Cascade Locks.

Amenities: All the major towns and cities (see list above) provide businesses that offer a variety of grocery stores, restaurants, grills, pubs, or fast-food eateries, including motels at the larger cities.

Camping: The Rooster Rock State Park is the nearest fee camping facility. Another viable option is Ainsworth State Park (7 miles to the east). Free roadside camping is generally not an option on this side of the Columbia Gorge in this particular area.

Administrative Agency: The site is on land managed by Columbia Gorge Ranger District, 31520 SE Woodard Road, Troutdale, OR 97230.

Seasonal Factors: Viable about 9-months of the year, though February-April tend to have increased water seaps which limit climbability.

Climbing Precautions: Best to not belay directly under the leader.

Road access conditions: Old scenic U.S. Highway 30 is paved, and a large gravel pullout exists at the site.