Though tiny in comparison to many crags, the merits of French’s Dome should not be overlooked. Many Portland area rock climbers have discovered that this miniature crag’s rare qualities give it an enduring appeal. A visit to French’s is sure to spark your enthusiasm, as well.
This unique and easily accessible dome of rock lies amongst a tall canopy of evergreen trees along the lower west side of Mt. Hood. There are at least a dozen climbing routes available ranging from 5.6 to 5.12. Most of the climbs are fixed with bolts, practically eliminating the need for natural protection. The overall height is 160 feet from the longest side and 80 feet on the road face.
The dome itself is not visible above the forest of Douglas fir trees, but it is just a short, one-minute walk to the crag. French’s Dome is an interesting geological wonder of the Oregon woods and a perfect little area to escape from the city. French’s Dome is composed of olivine basalt and is a tall remnant of an old volcanic neck core after the surrounding softer material eroded away exposing the small rock pinnacle.
There are ultimately three book sources for directions and beta to this climbing site:
1. Northwest Oregon Rock
2. Rock Climbing Oregon, by Adam Bolf and Ben Ruef
3. Weekend Rock, by Ron Horton
For Directions and Beta acquire the above guidebooks.
One very old guidebook details a minor bit about this site (primarily historical reference): A Climbing Guide to Oregon, by Nick Dodge (print 1973), Touchstone Press
Services: The nearest gas station is in Welches, Oregon.
Amenities: Welches has a grocery store, several outdoor sports shops (skiing oriented), golf course, and a resort. Rhododendron has a grocery store, and a fast-food eatery (DQ). If you drive to Sandy, Oregon you can find several higher-end exotic restaurants.
Camping or Lodging: McNeil Campground is a popular fee camping site located on NF1825 (toilet, firepit). Some free car camping spots exist on side roads like NF18, and NF1825 a few miles south of French's Dome. Various lodging facilities exist in Welches (resort), in Sandy, and in Government Camp. Bed & Breakfast arrangements do exist in various locales along the U.S. 26 highway corridor (check the internet).
Administrative Agency: This forest division is managed by Zigzag Ranger District, 70220 E. Hwy 26, Zigzag, OR 97049.
Seasonal Factors: The site is at the 2,600' elevation, and is accessible from May through October (minus heavy rainy days in early or late season). The pinnacle is well secluded deep in a forested canopy that holds humidity well on cold damp days, lengthening the 'drying out' time factor early in the season.
Climbing Precautions: The Northwest Forest parking pass is required when parking your vehicle at this site.
Road access conditions: The Lolo Pass NF18 road is paved.
Additional Notes: This site tends to be quite popular on weekends, and there are only a few moderate routes, all of which get heavy use. You might consider going to other quality local crags such as Enola (The Swinery) crag to climb.