PRC, NWOR, and ORB/ORC climbing route updates

The information provided here covers various updates from local rock climber's who made recent fixed gear changes on certain rock climbs, or completed a new route first ascent. These updates, notes, or corrections are not presently listed in the latest editions of the PRC, NWOR, or GCC books. The info listed below, and some other minor nuances not mentioned here, are planned for adjustment in later editions.


PRC book

Beacon Rock: On 8-14-2013 Matt Spohn did the FFA of Grunge Book, now titled Sky Fishermen. The new FFA includes the direct finish, a thin crack on the final 15' of the route (the old aid variation exited right at the old 1/4" bolt into Borderline). The route is now considered to be a quality technical power climb.

Broughton Bluff, Berlin Wall: Pride & Joy 5.10a now has bolts.

Broughton Bluff, Berlin Wall: Twist & Crawl has a new anchor with steel biners. The last two bolts have been updated (the last one is a bit closer for easier clip).

Carver Bridge Cliff: Shadowfox has a new fixed belay, and a bolt where a pin used to be located.

Carver Bridge Cliff: Uncola has its lowest first original bolt back in its correct locale (eliminates the hi-ball start).

Carver Bridge Cliff: Smerk has one more bolt added to the route, a sixth bolt, up left en route to the Smooth Torquer belay anchor (reduces the congestion on the New Gen anchor).

Far Side: just left of the big fir tree is the Snake Buttress on a broadly rounded prow. Mickey Mantle 5.7 (8 or 9 bolts total)
Climb up the rounded buttress and pass a crux move at bolt #4, mantle onto a ledge (5th bolt), then continue up the face to a belay anchor. If you make the moves to the right of bolt #4 then it is about 5.4 (this is the Safety Squeeze Variation).

Broughton Bluff, Jungle Cliff: Yum Yum Tree route is now all bolts. It still is the same name (FA ground up WW 1st ascent and 2nd ascent). Mr Wallace FA list shows the details of how it was originally climbed.

NWOR book

The Rat Cave: Between Enchilada Ala Carte and The Maverick is a new route called Kings of Rat 5.13b, length: 55'. Between the upper belay anchors for Sh@t Fire and Maverick is this new-ish route that offers unique dynamic movement. The KoR route is set with perma-draws. FA: Mark Huth, and developed by Mr. Hranicka.

Enola: two additional routes next to Burning Tree, both are 5,10a. The left route is independent with 6-7 bolts. The other route is a variation that branches up left off from Burning Tree at the 4th bolt, and climbs past 4 more bolts to another anchor.

Rock Creek Wall (aka Clif Cliff): Electric Blue, 5.12a, is the 5-bolt route right of Wyde Syde (FA CA-TA).

Enola: Route #1, Pig's Knuckles, is 5.11d (not 5.11b/c).

Enola: Hillbilly Hot Tub is 5.12a (not 5.12c).