Mosquito Butte

Mosquito Butte...with a name like ‘mosquito’ it must be good. This site offers a very small but fine selection of climbing opportunities from 5.6 to 5.11, and fits a general theme suitable to most climbers: quick access, a nearby camping area, and a nice lake for swimming. The short steep bluff is composed of grainy textured andesite. Climbing routes offer steep knobby holds or small edges for crimping.

This secluded forested bluff is situated in the Cascade Mtns, but is often climbable throughout the summer season from mid-May to October. The primary nuisance is the pesky mosquito during early summer.

For Directions and Beta: see the Mt Hood chapter in the Northwest Oregon Rock guidebook.

Site Information, Local Retail Businesses & Public Entities:

Services: The nearest gas station is in Government Camp or Welches, Oregon.

Amenities: Welches has a grocery store, several outdoor sports shops (skiing oriented), golf course, and a resort. Rhododendron has a grocery store, and a fast-food eatery (DQ). If you drive to Sandy, Oregon you can find several higher-end exotic restaurants.

Camping or Lodging: The Trillium Lake campground is a very popular (often booked in advance), highly maintained camping site located about 9 miles west on Hwy 35. McNeil Campground is a popular fee camping site located on NF1825 (toilet, firepit). Some free car camping spots exist on nearby secondary roads. Various lodging facilities exist in Welches (resort), in Sandy, and in Government Camp. Bed & Breakfast arrangements do exist in various locales along the U.S. 26 highway corridor (check the internet).

Administrative Agency: There are no fees or restrictions at this site. This forest division is managed by Zigzag Ranger District, 70220 E. Hwy 26, Zigzag, OR 97049.

Seasonal Factors: The site is at the 4,000' elevation, and is accessible from May through October. The site faces west 1/8 mile from a paved road.

Road access conditions: Paved road.