Book Title: Salmon River Slab

Author: East Wind

Copyright: Sept 2024

Other book titles available on the market:

Portland Rock Climbs

Northwest Oregon Rock

Product line website: portlandrockclimbs.com

This eBook is a small slice of information from a chapter within the Northwest Oregon Rock (or the Portland Rock Climbs) book. If you have found this eBook useful, purchase a printed version of the complete book, which is an indepth analysis to many fine rock climbing sites throughout NW Oregon. The book is available at local outdoor recreation based retail stores, and at our website.

WARNING: Rock climbing contains certain inherent risks that may be dangerous to your health. This guidebook is not a substitute for personal insight, time-learned skills, or lessons taught by climbing instructors. There are no warranties, neither express nor implied, that this eBook contains accurate or reliable information. As the user of this guidebook, you assume full responsibility for your own safety. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of any of the information in this book, including the location of bolts (or other hardware), route names, ratings, descriptions, approach trails, nor any assurance against hazards such as loose or poor quality rock, or the risk of equipment failure.

License statement:

This eBook version, released under a copyright license, is the property of the publisher and may not be sold for commercial or non-commercial purposes. The original source text, designs, and images for this eBook are copyright material from the publisher’s NWOR and PRC books. You may copy and share this eBook in any medium or format, but you cannot make derivatives (remix, transform, or build upon, nor distribute any modified material) or make adaptations (see license). Attain a free secure download of this eBook from the source: portlandrockclimbs.com. Support our eBooks and print publications by making a donation, or purchase one of our printed books.

Introduction

Salmon River Slab

Convenient Roadside Climbing

Salmon River Slab is a steep slice of exposed rock bluff located at a small roadside pullout just a few short miles south of the tiny community of Zigzag. The rock climbs here provide a comprehensive cluster of well-bolted sport routes on a smooth flaky rock.

The rock bluff faces west and is shaded during the morning hours. The best time to visit here to rock climb is from May to October (on a sunny day!) so you can take advantage of the great Salmon River swimming hole just a few steps across the road from the rock climbs.

Season:

Accessible for approximately 6-7 months of the year, from early May till late October, and occasionally into early November (if the weather remains fairly stable). During the Spring and early Fall months when the weather has been a bit rainy and cool, the small roadside bluff tends to remain a bit slippery for a day, unless the temperatures are moderate enough to dry out the stone surface.

How to get there:

Drive east from Sandy, Oregon on US Highway 26 to the tiny community of Zigzag. Turn south onto the Salmon River Road (NF2618) and continue due south on this for 4 miles. The popular summer time swimming hole is on the west side of the road, while the tiny bluff is located on the left (east side) of the road at a small dirt pullout.

Chapter 1

MAIN SLAB

The Beta Tour (from Left to Right):

1. Climbing Theme 5.6

Length: 45’, Pro: 6 QD’s

Quality Stars: 0

A basic introductory climb ascending up leftward in a minor crumbly groove, but it crosses several brief sections of hollow or slightly loose rock. Other than some minor crumbly stuff the route is actually a nice basic fun run.

2. Brown Rice 5.9

Length: 50’, Pro: 8 QD’s

Quality Stars:

Considered to be one of the better climbs here. A long steep face climb on small edges and smears. The crux is at the small overhung lip a few moves below the belay anchor. Consistent rock nuance technicalities (smearing and small edges).

3. Camel Back 5.9

Length: 50’, Pro: 8 QD’s

Quality Stars:

A surprisingly popular climb and an interesting worthy lead. A long steep face climb utilizing small edges and smears offering a reasonable degree of continuous climbing. The rock nuance technicalities remain fairly consistent for much of the route (small edges and smears), similar to Brown Rice.

4. Caveman 5.7

Length: 50’, Pro: 7 QD’s

Quality Stars:

Starts at a vertical rounded nose-like rock feature. Pull past a steep initial bulge crux section. The climbing eases for the moderately easy midway section using numerous edges. The route steepens again and gets a bit trickier for this last upper section just before you reach the belay station.

5. Salmon 5.5

Length: 45’, Pro: 6 QD’s

Quality Stars:

To the right of a deep slot is the final route on the far right. This route leans leftward at an angle for the first portion of the climb. Reasonably ample holds on the first section, then scoot up leftward on small edges, then continue directly up the final face section to the belay station anchor. Some minor dirty sections, though time and use has likely improved the quality of this line.

SOUTHERN SLAB

South of the main slab about 200’ distance are several new very short and easy 5th class routes on a short angled slab.

A. Spawning Sockeye 5.4

30’ in length, 3 QD’s

The left low angle slab route.

B. Moist Minnow 5.3

30’ in length, 4 QD’s

The right low angle slab route.

Chapter 2

Illustrated Topo Maps of the Salmon River Slab:

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License

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