Book Title: Rooster Rock

Author: East Wind

Copyright: May 2024

Other book titles available on the market:

Portland Rock Climbs

Northwest Oregon Rock

Product line website: portlandrockclimbs.com

This eBook is a small slice of information from a chapter within the Northwest Oregon Rock (or the Portland Rock Climbs) book. If you have found this eBook useful, purchase a printed version of the complete book, which is an indepth analysis to many fine rock climbing sites throughout NW Oregon. The book is available at local outdoor recreation based retail stores, and at our website. Photographs utilized in this eBook are provide courtesy of Karl Helser.

WARNING: Rock climbing contains certain inherent risks that may be dangerous to your health. This guidebook is not a substitute for personal insight, time-learned skills, or lessons taught by climbing instructors. There are no warranties, neither express nor implied, that this eBook contains accurate or reliable information. As the user of this guidebook, you assume full responsibility for your own safety. The author cannot guarantee the accuracy of any of the information in this book, including the location of bolts (or other hardware), route names, ratings, descriptions, approach trails, nor any assurance against hazards such as loose or poor quality rock, or the risk of equipment failure.

License statement:

This eBook version, released under a copyright license, is the property of the publisher and may not be sold for commercial or non-commercial purposes. The original source text, designs, and images for this eBook are copyright material. You may copy and share this eBook in any medium or format, but you cannot make derivatives (remix, transform, or build upon, nor distribute any modified material) or make adaptations (see license). Attain a free secure download of this eBook from the source: portlandrockclimbs.com. Support our eBooks and print publications by making a donation, or purchase one of our printed books.

Introduction

Rooster Rock

A Popular Gorge Rock Climb

Rooster Rock is a popular tooth shaped basalt pinnacle on the south side of the Columbia River Gorge located immediately west of the boat launch area at Rooster Rock State Park. The Rooster Rock pinnacle has long been a popular rock climb, both for entry level climbers, as well as for experienced climbers, who enjoy a bit of moderately easy climbing that packs a bit of adventure into the outing. The usual route is, of course, the South Face climb. The South Face Route is probably the only route worth doing on this small pinnacle, due to the excessively mossy, poorly protected nature of the other routes. Its well-deserved popularity practically bespeaks for itself.

Crediting the first ascent of this pinnacle is rather dubious, but yields an interesting history. As recorded in ‘A Climber’s Guide to the Columbia River Gorge’ by Carl A. Neuberger, “...about 1910, a sailor from a Swedish ship undertook the climbing of the rock when challenged by other members of the crew. When nearing the summit he lost his nerve and would neither go further or back down. However, he was finally persuaded by companions from below to go on to the summit. He was too frightened by the experience to descend and it was necessary to shoot a line to him before he could be brought down.”

Interest in the Columbia River Gorge for exploring, hiking, scrambling, and climbing purposes increased at the turn of the 20th century, partly because of the completion of the old U.S. Hwy 30 in 1913, which allowed fairly quick access to the entire sweep of the Gorge. It was to be expected that Rooster Rock pinnacle would shortly thereafter be climbed, which it was on 4-11-1915 by Ray Conway, William Clark, R.L. McLeod, Lester Miller, and J.N. Walker.

Directions:

Drive east on I-84 from Portland, Oregon and take exit #25 at Rooster Rock State Park. Pay the daily user fee and park your vehicle at the State Park, then walk around the south side of the small boat moorage lagoon to access the rock pinnacle which is located on the west side of the lagoon. Walk west between the freeway and the lagoon. From the freeway edge immediately south of the pinnacle, walk north along a nice dirt path that soon angles directly over to the start of the popular South Face Route. Just before you reach the base of the cliff another steep dirt path wanders directly up eastward to the seldom climbed East Face area.

Season:

Naturally, due to its low elevation status in the west end of the Columbia River Gorge, the pinnacle is potentially climbable 12-months of the year. It is commonaly ascended from May-October. The winter weather in the Gorge is often nasty and limiting, but if you’re willing to endure a bit of gusty conditions, you pretty much can conquer the summit just about anytime. Its probably best to avoid climbing this crazy stuff when its raining or snowing, though.

Chapter 1

The Climbs

Note: All of the rock climbing routes other than the regular South Face Route on Rooster Rock are infrequently climbed, because of friable, mossy, and often involve runnout, or poorly protected terrain. So, unless you are exceptionally skilled at that particular type of difficult terrain climbing, it would be prudent to avoid those other routes (#2 through #4).

Below: the group at the First Belay (South Face route).

Route Beta:

1. South Face 5.4

Pro: Nuts, Cams (or Hex’s) to 3.5”

Vertical Height of Route: 165’

Quality Stars:

A popular and enjoyable rock climb. The approach trail leads directly to the base of the pinnacle and up to a small level dirt stance next to a very LARGE fir tree on the SW shoulder of the pinnacle. Pitch 1: Lead up easy 4th class steps on the SW shoulder and after you surmount several steep spots belay (2-bolt belay anchor) at a small stance below a slight overhang (60’ lead) and belay at an anchor. Pitch 2: Traverse right 15’ to the base of the obvious diagonal ascending corner system. Ascend this corner system (crux) for 70’ till you attain the crest of the southeast ridge. Scramble up the exposed ridge crest 30’ to the summit. Though you could rappel with two ropes down the south face (165’ vertical) all the way to the ground, with a 60-meter rope it is quite common to just single rap back down to the First Belay anchor, then do another short rappel to the ground next to the BIG fir tree.[1]

Below: climbing the crux pitch (SF).

1B. South Face Direct Start 5.4

Pro: 6-7 QD’s

Quality Stars:

The latest completed project is this nice 45’ long direct start bolt route. Start on the ground next to the BIG fir tree. Still a bit grungy, it involves several odd moves during the first 15’ then eases to basic movement for the remainder of the climb to the fixed anchor. From this anchor, step up onto the regular route, and continue to the top using natural gear for protection.[2]

Below: crest of the southeast ridge (SF).

1C. South Face Direct Finish 5.9 R

Pro: (?)

This is the rappel route on the upper portion of the rock. Though free climbed in the distant past, it tends to be a bit runout, lacking viable protection placements, so is probably better if it’s just done as a top-rope.[3]

Below: welcome to the summit.

2. East Face Route 5.6 R/X

To approach the East Face route scramble up the steep dirt path to the east face of the pinnacle. Pitch 1: Begin by leading up rightward on steep dirty steps 30’ to a sling belay in the top of a large fir tree that leans up against the pinnacle. Climb to a shelf above the snag tree then continue directly to the summit using nailing gear by means of direct aid. Alternative B: Another route option is to angle leftward from the snag tree sling belay on poorly protected, and steep moss-covered terrain up to a point where it joins with the South Face route at the southeast ridge. Scramble up 30’ to the summit.[4]

Below: getting ready to rappel.

3. North Face II 5.6 A3 (or 5.8 R)

The route is reached by starting at the base of the east face, then dropping down 25’ to a ledge. Follow this west till you can belay at one of several trees. Climb diagonally up left 25’ and continue straight up through a notch in the first overhang. Ascend over the second overhang to a vertical slab, then up grass slopes to the top. It is ninety feet from the original tree belay up past the vertical slab, and then 45’ up the grass slope to the summit.[5]

Below: rappel with a smile.

4. Southwest Face II 5.6 A2 (or 5.9 R)

Ascends directly up the vertical rock on the SW shoulder above the first belay on the South Face route.[6]

Below: a nice summer climb at sunset.

###

[1] South Face: FA 4-11-1915 Ray Conway, William Clark, R.L. McLeod, Lester Miller, J.N. Walker

[2] FA: a long established climb, initially as a top-rope, and now as a lead.

[3] FA: probably one of the early ascentionists in the 1960s.

[4] East Face: FA 3-16-1958 Jim Fraser and Charles Carpenter

[5] North Face: [?]

[6] Southwest Face: FA 1960 Dave Bohn and partner

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This eBook version, released under a copyright license, is the property of the publisher and may not be sold for commercial or non-commercial purposes. The original source text and images for this eBook are copyrighted by Karl Helser. The designs incorporated herein, and the revised written text are the copyright property of the publisher of this eBook. You may copy and share this eBook on any medium or format, but you cannot make derivatives (remix, transform, or build upon, nor distribute any modified material) or make adaptations of the Work. Attain a free secure download copy of this eBook from the source: portlandrockclimbs.com. Support our eBooks and print publications by making a donation, or purchase one of our printed books.

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