Little Angora
Author: East Wind
Date: 2024-05-15T07:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Adventure Climb on Little Angora
Description: Beta Guide to Little Angora
Publisher: East Wind Design
Rights: Copyright © 2024

Table of Contents

Title Page

Introduction

Chapter 1

1. Little Angora 5.4 A0

Chapter 2

Additional images:

License

Book Title: Little Angora

Author: East Wind

Copyright: May 2024

Other book titles available on the market:

- Portland Rock Climbs

- Northwest Oregon Rock

Product line website: portlandrockclimbs.com

This eBook contains a small slice of visual information from the Karl Helser collection. Refer to the eBook publisher’s web pages at Northwest Oregon Rock and Portland Rock Climbs. If you have found this eBook useful, purchase a printed version of our books, which is an indepth analysis to many fine rock climbing sites throughout NW Oregon. The books are available at local outdoor recreation based retail stores, and at our website.

WARNING: Rock climbing contains certain inherent risks that may be dangerous to your health. This guidebook is not a substitute for personal insight, time-learned skills, or lessons taught by climbing instructors. There are no warranties, neither express nor implied, that this eBook contains accurate or reliable information. As the user of this guidebook, you assume full responsibility for your own safety. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of any of the information in this book, including the location of bolts (or other hardware), route names, ratings, descriptions, approach trails, nor any assurance against hazards such as loose or poor quality rock, or the risk of equipment failure.

License statement:

This eBook version, released under a copyright license, is the property of the publisher and may not be sold for commercial or non-commercial purposes. The original source text, designs, and images for this eBook are copyright material. You may copy and share this eBook in any medium or format, but you cannot make derivatives (remix, transform, or build upon, nor distribute any modified material) or make adaptations (see license). Attain a free secure download of this eBook from the source: portlandrockclimbs.com. Support our eBooks and print publications by making a donation, or purchase one of our printed books.

Introduction

Little Angora

Coast Range Adventure Climbing

The Little Angora Pinnacle is a small rock outcrop found within the northern Oregon Coast Range, an area that is one of Karl's favorite regions for exploration and adventure.

The region around Angora Peak has several unique pinnacles to scramble upon, a variety of awesome rock outcroppings, and stellar coastal views. This portion of the Oregon Coast Range is a heavily forested region with characteristic craggy peaked zones, which encompass a variety of odd summits beginning with the Sugarloaf Peak along the Necanicum River in the northern part of this mini-region. The central part of this range is practically overwhelmed by the scope of the dominant Onion Peak massif, and at the southern end of this area is the elusive Angora Peak group, a fairly well hidden cluster of minor craggy pinnacles and rocky ridge crests.

The area encompassing Little Angora (and the road hike) is a mixture of Oregon State land and private timber company managed land, so use consideration when visiting this area. You will be walking on a network of gravel logging roads, older grassy road beds, and doing little bit of typical coastal range bush thrashing on a cross-country forested ridge to get there. It all makes for a long, yet satisfying endurance outing.

This particular adventure, making a technical ascent of Little Angora, is located south of Cannon Beach (about 10 miles) at the tiny community of Arch Cape. The hike offers a long forested uphill walk, quality scenic views of the coast region around Oswald West State Park, and views southward to Nehalem and beyond, if it’s not foggy or cloudy.

Below: The Hermit Hut sign.

The highest point in this particular area is called Angora Peak, which is really merely a treed summit. The pinnacle and outcroppings up here are much more interesting. There are three distinct minor rock pinnacles scattered about the perimeter slopes of the main Angora Peak, the tallest rock formation being Angora Pinnacle (the easternmost outcrop).

There is a scramble route up the SW side, not pretty, but doable. Another pinnacle is the Revenge of Angora. That one got it’s name from the scramble route up the west side, a horrible, stickery mess. Long sleeves and long pants are a highly recommended. The third pinnacle is an elusive one called Little Angora, the northernmost pinnacle in this group. This eBook discusses in detail Karl's adventure on how to approach and ascend the Little Angora Pinnacle.

Note: to see a photographic tour of Karl Helser’s wild adventures, and to experience a bit of the flavor of his style of back country adventuring browse to his web pages at karl-helser.com. The photographic images, and portions of the raw script utilized for this eBook publication were provided through the courtesy of Mr. Helser.

The Angora Peak was named in honor of the Angora Hiking Club, a small clique of hikers who live in this particular region of the northern Oregon Coast.

Data Summary:

Total round-trip hiking distance is approximately 9 miles. The tallest point in this region is Angora Peak. The U.S. Hwy 101 parking spot is at 510’. Anticipate about 7 hours to complete this entire round trip adventure. How much time will this take? Anticipate 6+ hours round-trip (Karl started his unique Angora Grand Tour at dawn and returned near dusk in the winter time).

- Angora Peak (main peak): GPS UTM 428470E, 5070877N (2,692’)

- Revenge of Angora: GPS UTM 428507E, 5070819N (2,689’)

- Angora Pinnacle (east pinnacle): GPS UTM 428771E, 5070607N (2,556’)

- Little Angora (northernmost): GPS UTM 428344E, 5071287N (2,426’)

Directions and starting point of hike:

Drive west from Portland, Oregon on U.S. Hwy 26, then turn south on U.S. Hwy 101 past Cannon Beach. Proceed south about 10 miles to the tiny community of Arch Cape. Continue south of that community for about 2½ miles. You will pass the Falcon Cove Road on your west side, and about 1/10 mile beyond this is a gated access road on the east side of U.S. Hwy 101. Park here (do not block the gate). This gated entrance (Hwy 101 starting point) point is 2.0 miles north of Short Sands Beach (Oswald West State Park). Elevation is 510' at the starting point gate. Occasionally, you may find a sign posted at the gated entrance saying, “Active logging in area”, and a request to not hike at that time. The area encompassing Angora Peak (and the road hike) is a mixture of Oregon State land and private timber company managed land, so use consideration when visiting this area.

Season:

Naturally, the season for hiking in the Oregon Coast Range is somewhat limited, not typically due to snow pack, but because of its drenching rains. Yet, this region around Angora Peak is potentially viable year-round for hiking, depending of course, on your level of determination, and whether the quality of adventure you are seeking must be full blazing sunshine, or if you’re willing to endure a little bit of fog or cloudy conditions. Its probably best to avoid scrambling this crazy stuff when its raining or snowing, though. Karl has visited this region, both in summer months and in winter, giving proof that four season hiking here is reasonable.

Chapter 1

The Adventure

From the gated entrance walk east up gravel roads for 1.1 miles to reach a 4-way road junction. The initial several miles are mostly clear cut logged, thus offering views of surrounding area because of lack of timber at this time. From the 4-way junction, take the ENE trending gravel road that travels uphill. As it curves northward, it rounds one forest ridge, then curls northward again on a grassy road grade till you reach a steep rock road cut that offers nice views of the Pacific Ocean (1,600’ el). The road makes a U-turn here to the east side of the wooded ridge, and continues SE for almost ¾ mile till you encounter a minor road junction (2,140’) where a dead-end road cuts west (the Hermit Hut “trail” begins here).

Continue on the main dirt road SE to a pass where the road proceeds to the south side of the next hill (main Angora Peak). Captivating scenic views looking southward toward Nehalem are attained along this portion of road. The road bed is much more of an old grassy tread here.

Below: the team arrives at Little Angora

As the road aims more easterly, you will begin to see views of Angora Peak (main highest summit) at 2,682’, the Revenge of Angora (a stubby subsidiary rock outcrop just downhill and east of the main wooded summit of Angora Peak) at 2,679’ tall, and Angora Pinnacle (the easternmost) at 2,610’ tall. Soon you will reach a 3-way road junction at the saddle.

Below: and the opening moves

From the 3-way junction, walk north on the primary old road grade ½ mile till it U-turns and heads back SW looping in close near the north slope of Angora Peak. As the road wanders out toward Little Angora it abruptly ends at a big flat landing in a tangle of Alder tree growth. From the road end, continue cross-country for about ¼ mile, descending slightly initially through blowdown along the crest of the forested ridge, then gaining slight elevation as you reach the base of Little Angora.

The pinnacle is composed of conglomerate breccia, small and large cobbles that are cemented into a dark gray matrix mass, typical pinnacle material found throughout this region, and likely originating from depositional materials during an ancient era of mountain building upwelling phase of the coastal zone continental plate tectonic activity.

Beta for Little Angora Pinnacle:

1. Little Angora 5.4 A0

Pro: Carabiners, slings, aiders, helmet, minor pro to 3”. You will also need ¼” screw nuts and washers, wire loops or hangers (for first seven bolts).

Quality Stars (this one is all relative):

Pitch 1: Begin at the south side along the forested crest of the ridge at a vertical cobblestone face with a mossy groove on your immediate left. To tag this summit, commence by aiding in stirrups up a 7-bolt aid ladder (hangerless so you need ¼” screw nuts, washers, wire loops or bring your own hangers to place on them) on vertical terrain for 20’ till it eases where you can move up leftward onto a 4th class, exposed, steep mossy slope and up to a set of anchors on the “south” point. There is enough room at this fixed belay anchor for 3-4 climbers. A deep gap separates you from the main slightly higher “north” summit.

Pitch 2: this is a 4-bolt protected traverse to the north summit. It includes a heart-stopping step over to a sloped face, and a short 5.4 face climb to the summit. Begin by down climbing a steep, dirty, and brushy groove to a small landing, make a short step over to the first separation crack, and head up a nice ramp to the large step-across separation crack. The large step-across has a fixed bolt for protection at this side of the step. Make the 4’ airy step-across to a sloped face where another bolt awaits to quickly clip into (protects the abyss-crack below you). After the step, there’s a short scramble to a large ledge. Then clip a bolt, and make a short 5.4 move up the final face to the summit (belay anchor). Rappel back down the same way to the base.

Below is a photo of Little Angora (west aspect) which provide a good overall view of the vertical terrain you will be climbing.

The Journey Home:

The remainder of the journey back to your vehicle at the starting point on Hwy 101 is considerably easier, and once you reach the 3-way road junction at the pass its mostly a downhill cruise from there.

Enjoy the adventure!

Karl near the summit of Little Angora

Chapter 2

Additional images:

Below: A view from the summit.

Below: Another view of the summit of Little Angora.

Below: A first belay anchor, but now upgraded.

Below: What’s this BIG guy is waitin’ for?

Below: And a stunning sunset to wrap up the long adventure !

License

This eBook version, released under a copyright license, is the property of the publisher and may not be sold for commercial or non-commercial purposes. The original source text and images for this eBook are copyrighted by Karl Helser. The designs incorporated herein, and the revised written text are the copyright property of the publisher of this eBook. You may copy and share this eBook on any medium or format, but you cannot make derivatives (remix, transform, or build upon, nor distribute any modified material) or make adaptations of the Work. Attain a free secure download copy of this eBook from the source: portlandrockclimbs.com. Support our eBooks by making a donation, or purchase one of our printed books.

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