Jimmy Cliff
Author: East Wind
Date: 2024-05-15T07:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Rock Climbing at the Jimmy Cliff (aka Twilight Zone)
Description: Beta Guide to rock climbing at the Jimmy Cliff (aka Twilight Zone)
Publisher: East Wind Design
Rights: Copyright © 2024

Table of Contents

Title Page

Introduction

Chapter 1

1. The Short Bus 5.10b/c

2. Bride of Wyde 5.10a

3. The Move 5.8

4. Kyles Big Adventure Gear 5.7+

5. Mr. Denton on Doomsday 5.9 R (or 5.10a R)

6. Jimmy’s Favorite 5.10a

7. Beekeeper Magic

8. Conga Line 5.7

9. Conga Variation

10. Couchmaster Shuffle 5.10+ X

Chapter 2

License

Book Title: Jimmy Cliff

Author: East Wind

Copyright: May 2024

Other book titles available on the market:

- Portland Rock Climbs

- Northwest Oregon Rock

Product line website: portlandrockclimbs.com

This eBook is a small slice of information from a chapter within the Northwest Oregon Rock (or the Portland Rock Climbs) book. If you have found this eBook useful, purchase a printed version of the complete book, which is an indepth analysis to many fine rock climbing sites throughout NW Oregon. The book is available at local outdoor recreation based retail stores, and at our website.

WARNING: Rock climbing contains certain inherent risks that may be dangerous to your health. This guidebook is not a substitute for personal insight, time-learned skills, or lessons taught by climbing instructors. There are no warranties, neither express nor implied, that this eBook contains accurate or reliable information. As the user of this guidebook, you assume full responsibility for your own safety. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of any of the information in this book, including the location of bolts (or other hardware), route names, ratings, descriptions, approach trails, nor any assurance against hazards such as loose or poor quality rock, or the risk of equipment failure.

License statement:

This eBook version, released under a copyright license, is the property of the publisher and may not be sold for commercial or non-commercial purposes. The original source text, designs, and images for this eBook are copyright material from the publisher’s NWOR and PRC books. You may copy and share this eBook in any medium or format, but you cannot make derivatives (remix, transform, or build upon, nor distribute any modified material) or make adaptations (see license). Attain a free secure download of this eBook from the source: portlandrockclimbs.com. Support our eBooks and print publications by making a donation, or purchase one of our printed books.

Introduction

Jimmy Cliff

Adventure climbing at the Twilight Zone

The Jimmy Cliff (aka Twilight Zone) is a south facing crag might just be the place for your next adventure. The southern exposure lends well to multi-season climbing potential, though due to the 2800’ elevation it can be snow covered at various times in the winter months (GPS: N 45.67926 / W 122.05244).

Jim and Mike first spotted the place from the CG-1400 road, and later between them, Bill and Kyle, it was bushwacked into one snowless February day. Given the nature and looseness of the rock, care and attentiveness for both the leader and the belayer is the watchword to keep in your helmeted mind as you hang out at this awesome spot. There is a nice, year round spring in the area on the eastern side near the 3rd clump of maple trees that seems to taste particularly exquisite in late August when it's hot.

Bolts, boltless routes, gardening, ground up or topdown with toprope rehearsal is all good here and there is no “prevailing ethic” or other craziness. It is the hope that community harmony and helpfulness directed from and towards all will be the prevailing ethic and that the golden rule is remembered: that is, do unto others before they do it to you. Just do the right thing, have fun and stay safe.

This eBook version is a combination of both the original text as written by Bill Coe and portions of the condensed info in NWOR. His entire version set for inclusion into the Northwest Oregon Rock guidebook was condensed for spatial purposes, but can be referenced here easily in full form. Though longer, this Introduction provides a detailed descriptive analysis of the site as per Bill’s own words, a person who knows this climbing site quite well. His details eloquently explain some of the objective risk factors of the climbing routes at this site.

There is a series of cautions which should follow. As the area is situated at the 2,800’ elevation, there is no Poison Oak to deal with (yeahhh!), however, care should be taken towards the wildlife. This is helmet country so wear yours while climbing and belaying. There are bear and cougar which roam the area, however, perhaps more deadly are the yellow jackets which just show up where ever they want and are especially territorial in the late fall. Care when lifting loose rocks when cleaning routes to avoid the numerous scorpions is of lesser concern. Scorpion stings are significantly less serious than the wasps, despite what late night science fiction television writers would have you believe, and as you are a million times larger and scary to them they'll try and avoid you just like the many which live at Beacon that nobody ever sees.

Another serious objective hazard is potential pickup or logging truck collisions and the regularly scheduled road washouts. Driving with a window down at a reasonable speed with the radio turned off and listening intently for the next pickup full of hunters coming your way is a good idea. Late fall is hunting season, and not necessarily Jimmies as it's rocky and not favorable to wildlife, but the surrounding area of these woods are full of armed men trying to pop a cap on Bambi and looking to fill their freezer. Of course it's recommended that you check the internet for hunting dates, wear hunter orange, and NOT wear natural and muted colors top ping off that ensemble with the deer hat your spouse bought you as a joke (the one with the horns).

A note on ratings: although it’s a rare commodity, use your judgment. Today's 5.4 becomes tomorrows 5.14 when the 10’ block pops off in the winter, conversely, today's dirty, loose and dangerous hard 5.10 becomes tomorrows solid, well protected 5.8 cruiser once the crack under the dirt is discovered and cleaned by a few ascents.

Season:

A compact sunny south facing cliff scarp. Temperature variances depending on the time of day, season, and type of weather. The site has good cell phone reception caught from the towers down by the river. Season is best from late May to early November, if the snow does not block road access.

How to get there:

Beginning from Washington State Route 14 at Beacon Rock State Park, drive north on Kueffler road. Set your odometer and drive exactly 5.1 miles total distance. This road goes past the equestrian trailhead, then at 2 miles turns to gravel on National Forest CG-1400 road. Stay on the main gravel road. At 5.1 miles the road veers left abruptly, but you will turn right onto an obscure narrow old logging skid road. Park here (along the shoulder) or drive a very short distance northeast along the skid road and park at its end (see map below).

The trail initially drops down to the east but becomes very apparent on a nice path that walks mostly horizontally east to the bluff in ¼ mile. The climbing routes are listed left to right, the first route being on the western end of the bluff. The routes start out at about 50’ and increase to 300’ tall by the center of the wall.

The routes are listed left to right, so that as you enter, the first route you see on the western side of Jimmy Cliff is The Short Bus. The routes start out at 50’ and increase to 300' tall by the center of the wall.

Chapter 1

The Beta Tour from Left to Right:

1. The Short Bus 5.10b/c

Pro (in sequence): long sling for fir tree root, several small/med nuts, .75-1” cams, medium cams, some Aliens, #7 or #8 Hex, 3” cam

Approach from the trail, as you pass the lone bush in the middle of the talus, head left and up towards the super large dead snag. Pass it on the uphill side via a faint trail to the base of a small wall. The crack on the left hand side of the wall is “The Short Bus”. Probably will be 5.10b/c when clean. Good gear, in sequence, you need a long sling to sling the fir tree root as your first piece, a Metolious medium Supercam, Yellow and Green Aliens close together, a #7 or 8 Hexagonal nut, #4 (red) and 5 (black) Metolius #4 cam units-(.75-1”) a Gold Camalot, 2 small/med nuts (blue and gold DMM units). Climb to the rappel slings visible from below. Update: Fixe carabiner style rap devices installed.[1]

2. Bride of Wyde 5.10a

Pro: Cam rack, and Nuts

Just to the left of ‘The Move’ a few feet is a wide crack problem which leans gently to the right and appears steeper up close than from afar. Climb the ever widening feature as it goes from #4 Cam to #6 cam size then for a short section at the top to near body width size. Two Valley giant cams, a #9 and a #12 were put into the upper crack on the FA, more to lighten the leaders load than for actual pro and are not necessary as up to the #6 cam would work (perfect placement and the fall would be clean.) Adroit use of laybacking and arm bars with an odd face smear will get you up it. A single bolt was installed at the base to keep the belayer from rolling down the hill. Climb to the top and clip the 2 Fixe stainless steel carabiner style rap devices shared with “The Move”.[2]

3. The Move 5.8

Pro: minor assortment of Nuts, Cams, and Hex

Just right of ‘The Short Bus’ is a small pinnacle and a short route. Starting from the shared belay bolt of ‘Bride of Wyde’ ease up and right of the pinnacle, clip the bolt at the ¾ way point and make ‘The Move’ with the bolt right near your chest. Pro is a couple of nuts, yellow alien and an #8 Hex, if that, and a single quickdraw for the mandatory bolt right at “The Move”.[3]

4. Kyles Big Adventure Gear 5.7+

Pro: small selection of nuts up to 3” cams

Climb Mr Denton pitch one to Scorpion Ledge and traverse to the left 25’ to a shallow dihedral above a rotting tree stump. Clip a lone bolt which can be backed up with a nut behind a flake for the belay. Kyle used five pieces for this pitch, a couple medium wired stoppers and green Camalot's seem to make it go well.[4]

5. Mr. Denton on Doomsday 5.9 R (or 5.10a R)

Pro: small HB brass nuts, a screamer, 3”, 3-½”, 4” and/or 5” cams for upper crack

Scramble up 4th-5th class above and right of the big dead snag to a 2-bolt belay on Scorpion Ledge. Climb up 15’ and left about 10’ to a bolt, then straight up following faint cracks and thoughtful pro past a small tree to a larger crack ending at a 2-bolt anchor on top.[5]

6. Jimmy’s Favorite 5.10a

Pro: QD’s only

This started being called “Womb with a View” to celebrate both the obvious wide nature concerning the size of the upper part of this climb and the view of Mt Hood, Beacon Rock and the Columbia River Gorge behind you. The route was done when Jim Opdycke was unavailable on a 4-day backpacking trip, and was named in his honor. Climb the low angle 4th or easy 5th class to the 2-bolt Mr Denton anchors on Scorpion Ledge and belay. Step to the right 8 feet and head up following the 9 bolts on the face just to the right of and then inside the obvious shallow chimney to a 2 bolt anchor stance 8’ from the cliff top. A single 60-meter rope will get you down to Scorpion Ledge, keep an eye on the ends if it’s an older rope.[6]

7. Beekeeper Magic

A cleaning project that was left unfinished (Beekeeper Magic/Beeline, aka The Wasp Route). While on rappel to view this line, Bill was stung between 200-300 times.

Rumba Ridge

The following climbs are located at the ridge on the far eastern side of the face, a nice buttress mostly hidden behind the trees. With some cleaning they will be 4 or 5 star routes that dance joyfully up the ridge over 300 feet. To approach: there is a 3rd class spot that has solid low angle bedrock approx 3 feet across scoured by water runoff located about most of the way across the wall that faces south. Just hike along the base on the boulders past the first major cluster of 6 maple trees and curve around the far side and directly up the hill to reach this runoff spot. Hike up to the base of the cliff making one 3rd class move, then bear to the right (east) and follow the cliff base to the end where the buttress is. As with all new routes, but especially those that traverse and were done ground up, until these routes gets done a lot, be very careful to not knock rocks onto your partner, or when rappelling off as well. Helmets are advised and if you can double or triple up up on them and maybe get some shoulder coverage, do so. One of the critical DO NOT’s for this area is DO NOT defecate up here [near the spring]. There is a year round spring with sparkling cold, sweet, pure spring water right below that comes out of the base directly below the ridge (sorry, but it had to be said).

8. Conga Line 5.7

Pro: nuts, small cams, 1”, 2” and opt 3” cam, 9-10 full length slings

Jim had an intuition that this ridge would be a 5-star primo route and he was right, but missed the FA of this line to climb at the Beacon opening instead. Hike around the end of the buttress and up the gully and follow the trail at 30 feet to the first obvious break in the rock. A bolt, the only on the route, was added for the 3rd ascent and is visible from the ground. Pitch 1: Climb up using a crack and the occasional face hold about 15-20’ to the routes crux where you clip that bolt and then step left onto the ‘Ridge’ proper. The route then dances up the ridge as the route from here is significantly easier for both pitches all the way to the top. Trees are not just on but the monkey hangs on them are the highlight of the route. Head up past these protection trees until excessive rope drag causes you to belay off a tree on a nice 9’ long ledge just after the ½ way mark of the rope. Pitch 2: do a 12’-15’ foot leftwards and upwards traverse which gets you to the base of a hidden (until you get there when it becomes obvious) rock pitch that looks like a wide shallow gully. Pitch 3: This pitch heads up 100’ the rock then starts to drift to the left and ends near the top with an optional optional 5-6’ high #2 camalot bouldering move top then 25’ to the spruce tree on top of the ridge that has the rap runners and ring on it. Three single 60-meter rope fixed raps will get you down. There is a choice of two rap points for your 3rd one, the one of the large tree, climbers right, is better. Gear details: standard rack with 1 each small cams and full single nut rack and include a #1, #2 (and and optional #3 Camalot) 9-10 full length runners for the trees and to minimize drag are recommended.[7]

9. Conga Variation

At the end of the first pitch of Conga Line, instead of following the leftwards traverse for the 2nd pitch, head straight up a thin crack and some face holds. Avoid the obvious death flake in the corner (which may be gone when you read this). Turn the buttress, cruise past the tree, head up and and trend to the right until the Conga Line is rejoined.[8]

10. Couchmaster Shuffle 5.10+ X

Route is X-rated for the moment

Pro: set of cams to 2”, ¾” nut, doubles on ½” to 1” cams, long slings

Jim's pet name for Bill for the last 20+ years was “Couchmaster”. Whatever name Bill proposed for this route was immediately forgotten in the laughter once Jim tossed this name out. Although a set of single cams to a #2 Camalot and a ¾” nut were used in the FA, doubling on the Blue through Orange Metolius Mastercam 4-cam units (½”-1”) would be advisable till more of the loose rock gets knocked off. Lots of long over the shoulder runners are needed as well. To start, instead of wandering around to the easier backside start, start directly on the ridge where it touches the dirt and after a few short feet step left (west) to a small ledge like feature and up an easier 12’ ramp up and left onto the more aesthetic Couchmaster Shuffle crack. Head straight up the obvious crack in a shallow dihedral approx 70’ then when forced and it’s obvious, wander out right onto the face and ascend up past a fir tree on easy ground to gain the ridge. Belay at the upper tree when your partner yells that your 60-meter rope is about gone, and finish via the standard route 2nd pitch of Rumba Ridge.[9]

[1] FA: Ujahn Davvison and Bill Coe 8/26/07

[2] GFA: Bill Coe, Ujahn Davisson, Kyle Silverman 9/13/08

[3] FA: Bill Coe, Kyle Silverman, Geoff Silverman 9/1/07

[4] FA: Kyle Silverman, Bill Coe, Geoff Silverman 10/27/07

[5] FA: 9/19/07 Geoff Silverman, Kyle Silverman, Bill Coe

[6] FA: Bill Coe and Kyle Silverman 9/7/2008

[7] GFA: Bill Coe and Kyle Silverman 6/29/08

[8] FA: 7/19/09 Ujahn Davisson, Jeff Thomas and Bill Coe

[9] GFA: Bill Coe and Jim Opdycke 7/26/08

Chapter 2

Illustrated Topo Maps of the Jimmy Cliff:

The first image is the full width magoo of the entire crag, and the last two images are half slices that provide a closer visual view of the rock climbs.

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License

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