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The Larch bouldering site is one of the great new additions to the Portland bouldering scene.
The site has the potential for virtually endless bouldering opportunities, and presently has problems ranging from VB to V7 to date, and exceed 70 problems.
This site is a combination of boulders and rocky outcrops that is composed of high quality granodiorite.
Many high-ball problems (12' - 25' tall) and low-ball problems (4' tall x 25' long rail traverse).
Being a relatively new site exploratory bouldering continues here at a brisk pace and the long-arm list of known problems gradually expands each season.
The area is quite vast in scope, but certain sections are more popular, such as the upper Pecos Bluff formation.
The popular west side and the east side of the Pecos has room for more potential lines.
Most of road L-1000 and road L1510 is fine for two-wheel drive (go slow), but the last 1/2 mile jaunts up a steep, rough road more suitable for an all-terrain vehicle or a pickup.
You can still access the upper site by parking near the east yellow gate and walking the final steep grade (about 15 minutes walk).
Bouldering is feasible even in December with enjoyable bouldering on classic stuff in sunny balmy 55°F+ temperatures.
Did you set up any new problems...forward your latest beta to us so it can be added to the database for this site.
See the Larch diagram for road and path access to the main site on the third butte.
For more info see...
Tymun's Blog:
Portland Bouldering
Looking for outdoor bouldering opportunities? From mid-May through October good outdoor bouldering places near Portland are worth the visit. The warmer moderate temperatures quickly evaporate excess rain and dampness from the rocks, and a light breeze keeps it comfortable for bouldering throughout much of the season.
Though Portland is not a premiere destination for bouldering, of the minor bouldering sites that we do have available some have become very popular, such as Carver Boulders.
If Carver Boulders is the destination for you, browse Spencer's web link for Carver Boulders and the Carver Climbing Club site to learn of the process and rules applicable for all users at the site.
If you are in the area seek out some of these other sites as well...here are a few options:
The top of Rocky Butte provides scenic views of the city, but also offers good opportunities for bouldering on its fortress-like walls. The formation above the summit loop road offers a 15' tall slab of concrete cemented basalt blocks. The main vertical upper fortress formation offers a ong and difficult bouldering traverse. Just below the west side of the road where the road 'T's is a 160' long, near vertical, 17' tall bouldering wall composed of basalt blocks (road retaining wall). The base has been leveled with a nice sawdust landing and held in place with railroad timbers. The top of Rocky Butte is a popular bouldering destination during the Spring-Summer-Fall seasons.
Bridge of the gods boulders on the the Washington side of the Columbia River is a reasonable place in the cooler months from October to April. The place has a fair amount of poison oak during the warmer season, but is less of a nuisance in winter. It is a fairly open site so the boulders tend to dry out quickly even in the winter. The best of the andesitic boulders in this vast area tend to be in small clustered strings, but friends continue to explore the area and are still finding new gems.
See the BOGB diagram for road access and trails to the Dome area and the lower boulders.
The Schwingus near Rocky Butte in Portland offers a very short minor hung wall. It is located adjacent to I-205 freeway on the lower east side of the Butte. Access is by following a trail that starts near the Bible School church domes and parallels the road eastward eventually dropping down along the freeway perimeter fence.
Beacon Boulders on the west side of Beacon Rock offer a small selection of about 12 large andesite boulders, some of the routes being high quality and stout (Minus Man V8).
The infrequently visited Magma Zone on the north side of Broughton Bluff is a short basalt wall cleaned by Mike Pajunas. It was great when it was clean in the late 90s, but considerable moss regrowth has made it unappealing.
Horsethief Butte northeast of The Dalles on the Washington side of Columbia River is one of our favorite retreats to rock climb and also to boulder. It may be a bit of a boiler plate in summer, but Fall, Winter, and Spring offer plenty of sunny opportunities to practice on the quality string of boulder problems at the Butte.
See the Horsethief diagram for road access and the trail network.
The Garden is a long time favorite haunt near Sweet Home east of Albany. The boulders at the main area are packed in a dense cluster and many are very large, large enough for roped climbing on some. The densely packed cluster of boulders offer a vast string of quality problems on rhyolitic rock. Though the site is often too damp to use in the rainy season because of the overgrowth of maple trees surrounding the site, the warmer months are great.
Bulo Point boulders offers a cool high altitude selection of quality boulder problems. Nestled in the ponderosa pine trees on the east side of the Cascade Mtns south of FS44 road this site is a gem primarily for rock climbing, but has become a common site for bouldering as well on a minor selection of outcrops near the main crag formation.
Check out Mountainproject.com or Rockclimbing.com for additional info on these bouldering sites.
Cascade Boulders offers andesitic boulders typically 9' - 12' tall in a forested setting.
Barely tapped into (4 boulders so far with 9 problems) and with a plethora of potential, this site has advantages that make it worth the drive.
Paved road the entire distance to the parking site. A mere short easy forested dirt road 15 minute walk to the site.
Season: Typical 5-1/2 month window from mid-May through October but may extend beyond that during long dry periods.
Some minimal poison oak but easily avoidable. When visiting here be prepared to start your own new bouldering project.
Site has potential for many bouldering opportunities, but presently has VB to V6 problems to date.
For more info see Tymun's link above.
West Fork Boulders is a virtually untapped site
that has about 8 mega sized boulders (10' - 13' tall) and a long 20' tall bluff that offers potential high-ball lines.
The site offers a good opportunity to escape the wet Spring rains or early Fall showers.
The West Fork site has only seen minimal exploratory bouldering activity so far (on 1 boulder), so if you plan to go there be prepared to start your own new bouldering project.
The rock is high quality lightly textured andesite and generally easy to clean with a mere brush.
Presently has problems ranging from VB to V6 to date.
The Hood River valley can be hot from June-Sept so pick a cool temperate day if you plan to be there in the Summer season.
The site would be of interest to persons living near Hood River, or for the traveling Portlander who is heading east for a weekend day.
The road is paved the entire distance (via Hood River) to the site, and has a mere 2 minute approach hike.
For more info see Tymun's link above.