Book Title: Elephant Rock

Author: East Wind

Copyright: Sept 2020

Other book titles available on the market:

Portland Rock Climbs

Northwest Oregon Rock

Product line website: portlandrockclimbs.com

This eBook is a small slice of information from a chapter within the Northwest Oregon Rock (or the Portland Rock Climbs) book. If you have found this eBook useful, purchase a printed version of the complete book, which is an indepth analysis to many fine rock climbing sites throughout NW Oregon. The book is available at local outdoor recreation based retail stores, and at our website. Photographs utilized in this eBook are provide courtesy of Karl Helser.

WARNING: Rock climbing contains certain inherent risks that may be dangerous to your health. This guidebook is not a substitute for personal insight, time-learned skills, or lessons taught by climbing instructors. There are no warranties, neither express nor implied, that this eBook contains accurate or reliable information. As the user of this guidebook, you assume full responsibility for your own safety. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of any of the information in this book, including the location of bolts (or other hardware), route names, ratings, descriptions, approach trails, nor any assurance against hazards such as loose or poor quality rock, or the risk of equipment failure.

License statement:

This eBook version, released under a copyright license, is the property of the publisher and may not be sold for commercial or non-commercial purposes. The original source text, designs, and images for this eBook are copyright material from the author’s NWOR and PRC books. You may copy and share this eBook in any medium or format, but you cannot make derivatives (remix, transform, or build upon, nor distribute any modified material) or make adaptations (see license). Attain a free secure download of this eBook from the source: portlandrockclimbs.com. Support our eBooks and print publications by making a donation, or purchase one of our printed books.

Introduction

Elephant Rock

Triad Adventure tour of Elephant Rock, Split Spire, and Tumble Rock

There are two great rivers which gather the waters of the old Cascade Range southeast of Salem – the North and South Santiam Rivers. This region, known as the old or Western Cascades, are composed of older lava flows, tuffaceous scarps, and other intrusive rock formations. The hills surrounding these vast river drainages are characterized by steeply forested mountainous transition zones. The crests of these rugged fog shrouded peaks, reach to an average height of 5,500', and hold many ususual gems for avid adventurous climbers. There are natural rock arches, large caves, splendid views, deep blue-green lakes for fishing, and even pinnacles for rock climbing.

General Overview:

The Detroit Lake region is popular for fishing, hiking, and scrambling. Easily reachable for Salem-ites, but reasonable as a day hiking destination for Portlanders if you get an extra hour start on the day. Detroit Lake is 50 miles east of Salem (Portlanders add another 47 miles). The primary core of pinnacles are located around Tumble Lake, a beautiful deep dark-hue toned high altitude lake tucked down in a steeply forested valley. Needle Rock is perched along the ridge crest just east of Dome Rock.

(Img. 100) Below: Looking south at Split Spire (on left) & Tumble Rock (center).

There are about a dozen pinnacles, vertical rock castles, odd thin rock fingers (such as Brad's 501-Slivers), and steep rock knolls of varying sizes throughout the area. For example: Dog Tooth Rock is a technical adventure summit on the French Creek Ridge (west of the pass on trail #3349). The Watchman (4th class minor move via its south side) is a foreboding tall rock figure perched high above French Creek near gravel road NF501. Near Knutson Saddle, the Tumble Lake trailhead offers to two hiking trails, #3379 which descends to the lake, and #3380 which travels eastward on the immediate south shoulder of Dome Rock passing Needle Rock. You can visit Spar Rock, then Dome Rock (stellar views), Needle Rock, and Little Needle Rock along this trail (with some off-trail scrambling).

This tour will detail the rock castles, short spires, and pinnacles on the south side of Tumble Lake, the Hall Ridge complex. The lowest in this “triad” is Elephant Rock, a aptly named, look-alike rock scarp that practically leans over the lake. It provides off-trail adventure scrambling (or technical leading) on a rather grainy textured, very mossy, well-weathered rounded hump-shaped massif of a mostly junk choss and flaky rock (this is probably why it does NOT see many ascents). From the uphill side it is quite apparent how it attained its name with the rounded head, an indented eye-like formation, and a large shoulder for a summit (see photo). In short, the summits along Hall Ridge are definitely “scramble with care” adventurous outings on unique formations with great views.

Season:

The common season for easy access to this region is from June through October, though you might find days beyond this range feasible for hiking and scrambling in this region. The general overal elevation is about 4,500' along the Hall Ridge. Lat/Lon: 44.744°N / 122.22°W

(Img. 101) Below: View looking southeast at Elephant Rock.

Data Summary:

Elevation at the parking spot is 4,125', and the max elevation is 4,697 ft. along Hall Ridge. Total round-trip hike distance is approximately two miles. How much time will this take? Anticipate 4-5 hours round-trip depending on whether you rope climb, or just scramble some of the basic reasonable summits.

Distance measurements from the gravel road to a specified point

Miles (approx.)

Selected specific points en route on the hike

0.4

To hike uphill to crest of Hall Ridge.

0.6

To the point along Hall Ridge where you begin a steep descent to Tumble Rock.

0.7

To reach the base of Tumble Rock.

0.8

To reach the base of Split Spire.

0.9

To reach the base of Elephant Rock.

USGS data:

Tumble Rock: GPS Deg NAD83, 44.74242°N, -122.22722°W (4,671')

Elephant Rock: GPS Deg NAD83, 44.74429°N, -122.22348°W (4,426')

Split Spire: GPS Deg NAD83, 44.74338°N, -122.22496°W (4,359')

Other Specs:

Detroit Ranger Station: phone 503-854-3366.
No pass or fees for hiking in this area at the moment.
Camping opportunities: a popular campground is located 1 mile west of Detroit Lake, though there are plenty of riverside camping along Breitenbush River, and other nearby tributaries or small high altitude lakes such as Tumble Lake.

Note: to see a photographic visual tour of Karl Helser’s wild adventures, and to experience a bit of the flavor of his style of back country adventuring browse to his web pages at karl-helser.com. The photographic images, and part of the original raw script that are included in this eBook publication, were provided through the courtesy of Mr. Helser.

Driving Directions:

The North Santiam River region is located east of Salem along U.S. Hwy 22. There are several potential starting points from where you might begin this hike, but we will detail the approach as if you were planning for the standard tour, which requires mid-July and onward snow free access. As you reach the town of Detroit when driving east on U.S. Hwy 22 (just before crossing the bridge over the Breitenbush River), turn left onto French Creek Road NF2223. Drive on a paved road about 4 miles, then take the left gravel road at the split. Continue up a steep gravel road for another 2.75 miles till you pass the trailhead for Tumble Lake. The road splits again here (NF2223 goes right) just prior to Knutson Saddle. You will take the left split, NF520 to Knutson Saddle, then continue on this road 1¼ miles (at the 4,500' elevation) as it curves along the ridgecrest south, then southeastward, passing Sardine Mtn, and Watertower Mtn. Park your vehicle where the hikers path crosses the road (see topo) en route to Hall Ridge. You can see Whitman Rock uphill to the east from this parking spot. There is no trail sign here. The approximate distance from the vehicle to the spires is roughly ¾ mile.

(Img. 102) Below: Just before reaching Hall Ridge.

The Approach Hike:

Hike uphill on the “path”, an inobvious trace that fades out the closer you get to Hall Ridge. Hike east through thick tangled forest, rhododendron brush and open meadows of bear grass. Descend the very steep ridge line directly down to Tumble Rock, Split Spire and Elephant Rock. Locate the steep narrow forested ridge that descends downhill to Tumble Rock, Split Spire, and Elephant Rock. Scramble down this steep slope using faint deer trails. When you reach the south edge of Tumble Rock, hike along its eastern rocky slope around to its north side.

Chapter 1

The Beta Tour:

Tumble Rock

(Img. 103) Overview of Tumble Rock, Split Spire, and the Elephant

1. North Side Route 3rd class

Pro: Hands-on scrambling and sturdy feet

Scramble into the forest near the north base of Tumble Rock to locate a faint deer path on the north side that allows a much easier ascent wrestling with small trees on a steep slope. This variation has become the “standard” line up Tumble Rock, though rare are the adventurers who venture here. This is the standard descent back down, too.

(Img. 104) Below: Tumble Rock east face.

2. West Side Route 4th class

Pro: Rope, slings, and a few nuts

Tumble Rock is an exposed 4th class summit scramble. From the south saddle scramble up left (onto the west side) on gravelly ledges passing a short step, and then up left amongst the trees on ledges to the top. Exposed steep scrambling.

(Img. 105) Below: Closeup of Tumble Rock east face.

3. Split Spire 5.6 A1 or 5.10-

Pro: Versatile rack of nuts and cams to 4” plus pitons

The infamous double summited Split Spire is rarely climbed. Start up from the west onto a gravelly ledge then angle to the right till you are under the notch between the two spires. On the right ascend a wide groove corner that angles up left to the notch. The toughest section is the free climbing moves from the shaky piton onto the notch. Step from the notch up onto the summit and belay. Expect some friable rock on this strangely classic summit. The technical part of the climb is less than 80’ and you can rappel with one rope to the gravel ledge and rappel again from the bush to the ground.

(Img. 106) Below: The Elephant.

To continue the adventure from Split Spire, hike downhill on a viewless bushwhack along the ridgecrest until you reach the initial rock slopes of Elephant Rock. Scramble up left along large gravel and brush covered steps and ledges. When you reach the base of the cliff near the “neck” of the elephant you have several choices for known ascent.

(Img. 107) Below: The Neck Route on the Elephant.

4. Elephant’s Neck 5.3 R

Pro: rope, minor gear to 3”

You can rope up and lead climb the deep wide groove on 40’ of loose near vertical rock in a dirty groveling chimney to the crest, then make a short few moves eastward onto the final summit.

5. Elephant’s Nose 5.3 R

Pro: rope, slings, minor gear or pitons to 2”

Walk past the previous route, and continue to scramble left along big gravel covered ledged around the very “nose” of the elephant. From near the base of the “nose” of the elephants head you will find an obvious rib (5.3R) leading directly up to the top. Lead climb up this “nose” onto the top of the head, then along its shoulders to reach the final summit of the elephant. This summit is quite airy to attain yet yields exhilarating views once you are there.

(Img. 108) Below: The broad south face of the Elephant.

6. Elephant’s North Shoulder 4th class

Pro: Hands-on scrambling and very sturdy feet

Continue to scramble around onto the surprisingly steep, slippery (if there is dew) north slope, along small gravelly ledges, then ascend up a series of small ledges, reaching the summit on the northeast side of Elephant Rock. This last option is a very circuitous variation, but is generally the easiest (but not any less spooky). All the methods to the summit are a bit adventurous and spook-ish in places.

(Img. 109) Below: The approach for the Elephant (looking south).

(Img. 110) Below: The summit hump of the Elephant.

Enjoy the adventure!

Img. 100: Looking south at Split Spire on the left, Tumble Rock high center, and the overlook viewpoint in the upper distant background (© Helser).

Img. 101: Stellar view looking southeast at Elephant Rock, with Coffin Mtn, then 3-Finger Jack behind that (© Helser).

Img. 102: One of the initial meadows on the first 1/2 mile (© Helser).

Img. 103: Viewpoint aspect looking down and east at Tumble Rock, Split Spire, and Elephant Rock (© Olson).

Img. 104: Tumble Rock (© Helser).

Img. 105: Closeup view of east face of Tumble Rock (© Helser).

Img. 106: A closeup view of just the head, neck and summit of Elephant Rock (© Helser).

Img. 107: A rappeler on the “Neck” route 5.3R (© Helser).

Img. 108: Broad view of the south face of the Elephant (© Helser).

Img. 109: View of the approach to reach the north side of Elephant Rock (© Olson).

Img. 110: The summit hump of the Elephant. The head is off to the right. Looking west (© Helser).

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