Illumination Rock is the prominent, sharp-profiled summit on the upper slopes of Mt. Hood. Also known as I-Rock, this unique landmark, majestically perched at the 9643' level provides the classic summit prize for any strong high altitude climber.
This unusual rock formation represents some of the most difficult and committing alpine climbing in the entire State, and in recent years I-Rock has become the central scene of a whole new dimension in technically demanding alpine routes in Oregon.
A fine selection of mixed rock and ice routes up to 6 pitches long make this a great single day challenge of rare proportion. After all of your hard effort to conquer I-Rock, you will find that the summit block is a teetering boulder that few climbers will venture to stand upon.
Park at Timberline Lodge and hike north to the base of the spire. Expect 2-3 hours to approch the spire.
The rock face does have substantial hazard, mainly due to loose debris and unstable rock. You should anticipate encountering rock fall when climbing any of the routes on I-Rock, and expect rime ice when climbing here in the winter season. Wear a rock helmet for safety! The winter ice gullies are available from November to May, while the summer rock routes are generally climbable from June to October.The reference maps describe both summer and winter climbs. Most routes have been repeated under variable weather conditions. To find the cliff generally free of snow you will likely need to climb during the months of July to September.
Cheers, and climb safely!
| Cliff Section | Route # | Route Name | Rating | Length | Beta | |
| Illumination Rock | 1 | West Arete | II 5.1 | Multi | Via West Chamber | |
| 2 | Southwest Ridge | IV 5.9 AI 1 | Multi | Rock or lite ice | ||
| Photo | 3 | April Insanity | IV 5.9+ AI4- MI4+ | Multi | Mixed | |
| Ink Topo | 4 | Iron Maiden | III 5.7 AI2 | Multi | Mixed | |
| 5 | Rime Dog | III 5.8 AI3 | Multi | Mixed | ||
| 6 | South Wall of S. Chamber | II lower 5th class | Multi | |||
| 7 | South Chamber | II 5.4 | Multi | |||
| 8 | South Face | II lower 5th class | Multi | |||
| 9 | East Ridge of S. Chamber | II 5.6 | Multi | |||
| 10 | Abracadabra | 5.10c | 160' | Thin shallow crack corner | ||
| 11 | March Madness | II AI4/WI4 | Multi | Frozen Waterfall | ||
| 12 | NE Face from I-saddle | II 5.8 | Multi | Ridge from the saddle | ||
| 13 | North Face | II 5.5 | Multi |