Illumination Rock Section Beta for high altitude extreme alpine & mixed rock/ice climbs

   Illumination Rock is the prominent, sharp-profiled summit on the upper slopes of Mt. Hood. Also known as I-Rock, this unique landmark, majestically perched at the 9643' level provides the classic summit prize for any strong high altitude climber.
    This unusual rock formation represents some of the most difficult and committing alpine climbing in the entire State, and in recent years I-Rock has become the central scene of a whole new dimension in technically demanding alpine routes in Oregon. A fine selection of mixed rock and ice routes up to 6 pitches long make this a great single day challenge of rare proportion. After all of your hard effort to conquer I-Rock, you will find that the summit block is a teetering boulder that few climbers will venture to stand upon.
    Park at Timberline Lodge and hike north to the base of the spire. Expect 2-3 hours to approch the spire.
    The rock face does have substantial hazard, mainly due to loose debris and unstable rock. You should anticipate encountering rock fall when climbing any of the routes on I-Rock, and expect rime ice when climbing here in the winter season. Wear a rock helmet for safety! The winter ice gullies are available from November to May, while the summer rock routes are generally climbable from June to October.The reference maps describe both summer and winter climbs. Most routes have been repeated under variable weather conditions. To find the cliff generally free of snow you will likely need to climb during the months of July to September.
    Cheers, and climb safely!

 Cliff Section Route # Route Name Rating Length Beta 
Illumination Rock1West Arete II 5.1 Multi Via West Chamber
2Southwest Ridge IV 5.9 AI 1 Multi Rock or lite ice
Photo 3April Insanity IV 5.9+ AI4- MI4+ Multi Mixed
Ink Topo 4Iron Maiden III 5.7 AI2 Multi Mixed
5Rime Dog III 5.8 AI3 Multi Mixed
6South Wall of S. ChamberII lower 5th class Multi
7South Chamber II 5.4 Multi
8South Face II lower 5th class Multi
9East Ridge of S. Chamber II 5.6 Multi
10Abracadabra 5.10c 160' Thin shallow crack corner
11March Madness II AI4/WI4 Multi Frozen Waterfall
12NE Face from I-saddle II 5.8 Multi Ridge from the saddle
13North Face II 5.5 Multi