French's Dome Section Click here to link to each wall section
Right side descent trail      Left side descent trail     

   A unique and highly accessible dome of rock deep in the midst of a tall canopy of evergreen trees along the lower west side of Mt. Hood invites climbers to seek out the numerous climbing opportunites here. Most of the climbs are fixed with bolts, practically eliminating the need for natural protection. The climbs range in difficulty from 5.6 to 5.12+. The overall height is 160' from the longest side and about 80' on the road face.
   The crag is located 6.2 miles up the Lolo Pass Road (F.S. 18) from its junction with U.S. 26 at Zig Zag. Look for an unobtrusive dirt pullout on the right with a F.S. trail sign. The dome is not visible above the forests of Douglas fir trees, but it is a very short walk to the crag. French's Dome is an interesting geological wonder of the Oregon woods, and is a perfect little area to escape from the city. At the present rate of erosion at the cliff base of French's Dome, the whole rock might start rolling downhill soon, but quickly followed by an enthusiastic herd of rock climbers with QD's in hand!
  The routes at French's Dome are described symetrically, which you will find quite beneficial because the trail first encounters the crag at the Road Face climb. So...beginning with the Road Face route, both lists shown below detail each rock climb as if you were to descend the perimeter trail around the crag, either to the left, or to the right. The lowest major climb and the longest is the famous Giant's Staircase.
  The ratings at French's are a bit strange, especially when the 5.8s feel like 5.7, and the 5.11s...indeed!"
Note: A daily or an annual NW Forest Pass permit is required to park here.

 Cliff Section Route # Route Name Rating Length Protection Quality
Right descent1Road Face 5.12a 60' QD's
2Unknown 5.12 60' QD's
SW Face 3Yellow Brick Road 5.10b 180' to 3" + runout -
4Unknown 5.11- 60' QD's
5Var. Start to Giant's 5.6 20' QD's
6Giant's Staircase 5.6 Multi QD's + runout
7Static Cling 5.10- 60' QD's
8Do It Again 5.9 Up left of prow QD's
9Tin Tangle 5.8 Up Prow QD's

 Cliff Section Route # Route Name Rating Length Protection Quality
Left descent1Road Face 5.12 60' QD's
2Unknown 5.12a 60' QD's
NE Face 3China Man 5.11b 60' QD's
4Unknown 5.12+ 60' QD's
5Pump-O-Rama 5.12a/b 60' QD's
6Crankenstein 5.11c 60' QD's
7Silver Streak 5.10b 60' QD's
8Straw man 5.8 80' QD's
9Alpha Centauri 5.8 80' QD's + pro to 1"
10Emerald City 5.8 60' QD's
11Tin Tangle 5.8 60' QD's
12Do It Again 5.9 50' QD's
13Giant's Staircase 5.6 Multi QD's + runout